Vlad solved an issue with our fridge that we have had ever since we bought it. No one else had been able to figure it out — zero water pressure from fridge as well as a broken ice machine. Would call him again for any future appliance fixes!
Common problems
Why is my oven not heating, or not reaching temperature?
Short answer
Most ovens that “stopped working” are still working — they are heating to the wrong temperature and doing it faithfully.
The temperature sensor drifts with age, the control obeys it, and the result is uneven browning, a preheat that never completes, or a roast that takes an extra half hour. That is a sensor, and it is a modest part. An oven that produces no heat at all is a different and usually cheaper story: on gas, a glow-bar igniter that has weakened past the current needed to open the gas valve; on electric, the bake element or its relay. And an oven that has gone completely dead right after a self-clean cycle is almost always a door latch that has not released.
Diagnosis
What it usually turns out to be
Listed roughly in the order a technician checks them — which is not the order of how expensive they are, but of how likely.
Most common
Temperature sensor drift
The oven reads wrong and heats to that wrong number. Symptoms are subtle and gradual, which is why people blame the recipe for months first.
Most common
Weak glow-bar igniter (gas)
It still glows, so it looks fine, but it no longer draws enough current to open the safety valve. The oven takes longer and longer to light, then does not. Measurable in minutes.
Common
Bake element or relay board (electric)
On dual-fuel ranges the cooktop working tells you nothing about the oven — they are separate systems.
Common
Door latch stuck after self-clean
The control locks the oven out because the latch has not confirmed release. It looks catastrophic and is a quick repair.
Common
Convection fan stopped
Turns a convection oven into an uneven conventional one. Usually a bearing.
Less common
Control board
Diagnosed last, after the sensor it reports on has been tested.
When to stop and call
If you can smell gas, do not troubleshoot — leave and call the gas company first. We will take it from there.
Before you call
What you can safely check yourself
- Put an oven thermometer on the middle shelf, set 350°F, and read it after a full preheat plus fifteen minutes. More than about 25°F out is a sensor.
- On a gas oven, watch the igniter: if it glows for more than about 90 seconds before the burner lights, it is on its way out.
- If the oven died right after a cleaning cycle, let it cool completely — a few hours — and try again before assuming the worst.
- Check the door closes flush and the seal is intact. A sagging door costs real temperature.
- Note any fault code on the display and have it ready when you call; we can often tell you the repair before we arrive.
Nothing above asks you to open a sealed system, meter a live board or bypass a safety device. If a step needs any of those, it is not on this list.
Can I recalibrate the oven myself?
Many of these ranges have an offset adjustment in the control menu, and it is a legitimate fix for a small consistent error. It is not a fix for a sensor that is drifting — the error will keep moving.
Is a slow-lighting oven dangerous?
It means gas is being released for longer than intended before ignition. It is worth dealing with rather than living with.
Reviews
What Our Customers Say
Real reviews from real customers across San Diego and Orange County.
Vlad is a fantastic repair man. I thought I was going to have to buy a new washer unit. He showed up on time the next day and within 1 minute had diagnosed the problem. In and out and the washer is working great again!
My refrigerator water and ice maker had not been working for a while. Vlad got back to me quickly and came out the next day. He was on time and professional. He was able to repair my refrigerator and everything is working again.
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Your Appliance Won't Fix Itself
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